Centro, where the city was born

The roots of Rio are in its center. In the heart of the city, office buildings and streets abuzz with workers and chaotic traffic conceal traces of the colonial era to be found in its churches, public buildings, sobrados (houses of two or more stories) and narrow alleys. The area referred to as Centro, or Cidade, is vast. Three full days would be necessary to get to know it completely, but a tentative first exploration could start at the very center of Centro, the Praça XV de Novembro, and proceed to Morro de São Bento.

Located at Praça Quinze (XV), the Paço Imperial, built in 1743 to house the first provincial government, is presently a cultural center that features exhibitions, shops and restaurants. While you are in the square, admire the beautifully carved Chafariz do Mestre Valentim, a public fountain built in 1780 on the former footings of the old docks. Where you are standing used to be sea! Cross the square, passing under the Arco do Teles, and head to Travessa do Comércio, an example of old Rio, filled with colonial sobrados. Further on, you will find the Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Lapa dos Mercadores, a recently restored church and truly a jewel of baroque. Still on the Travessa do Coméricio, you will see on your right the Casa França-Brasil, the old customs house, and, on your left, the Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil, the biggest bank in Latin America.

After leaving the cultural centre, on Avenida Presidente Vargas, the big church you see on the left is Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Candelária, the biggest colonial church in Rio, founded in 1609 by Portuguese immigrants. Next stop: Mosteiro de São Bento. The walk is a little longer and you will have to climb a steep street since the monastery is on top of the hill that goes by the same name. But the effort is worth it. A UNESCO World Heritage Monument, its sober, simple and mannerist façade belies the magnificent carvings of its interior in baroque and rococo styles. On Sundays, the ecstasy of devotion expressed in the wooden artwork is matched by the sound of Gregorian chants.

Rio is more than South and downtown

Rio is not just the southern area and downtown, although its famous landmarks are mostly there. Squeezed between the ocean and the mountains, the city spreads westward and you will not be disappointed if you follow this route. To really enjoy the tour, rent a car. At the end of Leblon beach, take Avenida Niemeyer and the beach drive running alongside the Pedra da Gávea mountain, where the sea-breeze holds aloft a polka-dot pattern of hang gliders in the sky. During the drive, which takes about 40 minutes, you will pass the Barra da Tijuca, Recreio dos Bandeirantes and go up Estrada da Grota Funda.

After descending the hill, you will reach Estrada da Pedra da Guaratiba, where the Sítio Burle Marx is located. Previously named Sítio Santo Antônio da Bica, it was bought by Roberto Burle Marx, landscape architect and artist, in 1949, and transformed into an ecological sanctuary for more than 3,500 tropical and semitropical plant species. When you get here, head to the reception room where the 90 minute guided tour begins. As well as the gorgeous gardens, don't miss the Santo Antônio Chapel, built in the 17th century, and Burle Marx´s atelier-residence, which houses artworks by Burle Marx himself and a collection of glasses, baroque images, pre-Colombian pottery and primitive Brazilian ceramics.

After the visit, cross the gate and the road to the restaurant César, owned by and named after Marx's former cook. Sit at one of the outside tables and, while waiting for your seafood, taste a genuine caipirinha. But don't exceed, since the next stop demands a sharp eye.

Not far from here is the Casa do Pontal, the largest museum of Brazilian folk art, exhibiting about 5,000 sculptures by more than 200 artists from every region of the country. Stroll through the various rooms and enjoy authentic expressions by the Brazilian people.

By now, the afternoon is drawing to a close. If you still want to see more art, go to Prainha, sit down and watch the orange sunset, the blue ocean and the green hills. And thank the artist who created this marvelous palette of colors to serve as backdrop to a wonderful city.

Too hot? Head to the forest

When you picture yourself in Rio, you see the beach in the summer, the blue ocean, the gorgeous Ipanema girls, the muscular men working out by the sea, the sun, and the heat. But nature in Rio is not just the ocean. The city has the biggest urban forest in the world, with a varied fauna and flora and, best of all, lots of shade and cool air. So, wear comfortable clothes and shoes and don't forget your camera. We are going to explore the woods!

The tour begins right after the Rebouças Tunnel exit. Make your way up Silvestre to Corcovado (the Christ) and your first stop. Enjoy the panoramic view of the city far below you and see if you can spot somewhere you recognize. Recovering your breath after so much beauty and so many steps, continue on the tour by heading to Paineiras, a road closed to cars on weekends, where you can walk, jog, or ride your bike peacefully. The road ends at Alto da Boa Vista, where you will find the main entrance to the Parque Nacional da Tijuca. Stop at the parking lot near the waterfall and take a look at the map. There are many interesting places to visit and you can either walk or drive. Take the exit that leads to the road of the Museu do Açude, another stop. This beautiful residence houses many interesting objects and tiles. From there, follow the road to Vista Chinesa, and on the way, you will pass by Mesa do Imperador. Keep going down, until you reach Jardim Botânico. Is it time for lunch yet? Two nearby options are Couve-flor and Filé de Ouro. After the meal stroll leisurely down the tranquil paths of the botanical garden. Do visit the orchid greenhouse and don't forget to stop and smell the roses.

The day couldn't have been more refreshing, but you still have to taste the fruit ice-creams made by Mil Frutas, or maybe have an ice cold beer at Caroline Café. Or some coffee at Ponte de Tábuas bookstore or just see the quaint things for sale at the neighboring garage sale. After all, you're back to civilization!

Rio and the arts

Rio began to fall in love with art while it was still a colony. Theaters, museums and a national library were created and the tradition continued even after the republic replaced the monarchy. Today, the museums in Rio house important temporary exhibits, like the ones of Monet, Rodin and Dali, and incredible permanent collections.

One of the most complete modern art collections is shown at the MAM, the Museum of Modern Art, which is located in Parque do Flamengo amidst recently-restored gardens designed by Burle Marx. From MAM, walk towards Cinelândia and you will find a beautiful collection of buildings with European-influenced architecture: the Teatro Municipal, the Museu Nacional de Belas-Artes and the Biblioteca Nacional.

Head towards the Carioca underground station, taking Rua Senador Dantas, and you will reach the departure point of the bonde de Santa Tereza, a tram that will take you to an area considered by many to be Rio's Montmartre. Occasionally, an art festival takes place here called the "Santa Tereza de portas abertas", where many artists show their works and studios. The tram ride is a joy and to go through the Arcos da Lapa is like taking a step back in time. Stroll along the streets, noticing the traditional houses of Santa Tereza, and think about the days of yore. There are also many interesting restaurants in Santa Tereza, such as Adega do Pimenta, Bar do Arnaudo and the delicious Aprazível. After lunch, don't miss Museu da Chácara do Céu and its neighbour, Parque das Ruínas, where there are art exhibits and shows. If the evening is coming on and you are still up there, stay and watch the sunset. It is an unforgettable experience to see the Guanabara Bay changing colors and the city lights coming out like stars when the night finally falls.